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L'univers est une espece de liure, dont on n'a lu que la premi 




on n'a vu que son pays." 



LE COSMOPOLITE. 



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W. J. A. FULLER. 



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iKJin innerary | or (s^wiss 



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REISEN 1ST LE BEN." 



H E German's motto has become appropriate for the 
American. The increasing desire of our countrymen to 
travel in foreign lands is more and more evident. A 
French authoress has said that " travel is the saddest of all 



J 



pleasures;" but she was an unwilling exile, the bitterness of 
whose experience is told in the reason which she adds: " for 
travel is a continual arrival where no one expects you, and a 



departure where r.o one regrets you." It is true that the 
traveler cannot find the welcome or the comforts of his home; 
but it is probable that in Switzerland there is a nearer 
approach to the kind ways of home than in any other European 
country. The cordial greeting at hotel or hospice, the efforts 
made for the traveler's entertainment, the hearty " Adieu" 
spoken at his departure, — these render a journey among the 
Swiss something other than " the saddest of pleasures." Every 
traveler thinks better of a country where he has found good ^ 
hotels. In Switzerland these are most excellent. This is true 
not only of the large and modern establishments, at such 



places as Geneva, Interlaken and Zermatt, but also of the 
many small hostelries; and the traveler, 

" Where'er his stages may have been, " 

will find, that, in the French and German portions of Switz- 
erland, there awaits him — 

" The warmest welcome at an inn. " 

Here, as else where, the traveler will ask three questions : 
"Where?" "How long?" " How much?" He desires to know 
the route, the time and the cost of hi s journey. The average 
American is far more impatient of the expenditure of his 



time than of his money; but he is most impatient of the study 
of details; and he is willing to waste both time and money, 
and see little, rather than to work out a plan for his travel. 
Therefore, having set apart a certain number of days for the 
Continent, he accepts tickets for some "circular Swiss tour," 
follows the crowd over the beaten paths, travels rapidly and 
for the most part by rail and diligence, sees Mt. Blanc from 
Geneva, gets a glimpse of the Jungfrau from his window at 
Interlaken, rattles over the Briinig, rests for a few days at a 
fashionable hotel at Lucerne, rides up the Rigi,— and then 
hastens to Paris to spend the remainder of his time and money, 




flattering himself and informing his friends that he has seen 
Switzerland. 

The Swiss guide-books are numerous and excellent. They 



give ample information about all parts and places; but it 
remains for the trave ler who would see the glory of the land 
to decide which of thes e places he will visit, and in what 
order he will enjoy them. 

In presenting the fol lowing itinerary, it is hoped that a 
service will be rendered to some who desire to reach, in the 
most expeditious and least fatiguing way, the more important 
parts of this little country of great wonders. The route has 



not been arranged by th e writer, and he has not tested all of 
its stages. He is indebted for it to o ne whose frequent visits 
and careful habits of observation and com parison render his 
opinion most valuable; o ne, moreover, who desires to give 
others the ben efit of his experience. The itinerary avoids as 
much as possible the mor e crowded paths of Swiss travel : it 
is not described in any of the popular " Swiss tours :" it is 
not included in any of the " circular tickets." It is intended, 
although not exclusively, for those who are able and willing 
to walk; for w ithout some walking many of Switzerland's 
treasures cannot be explored. On many of the roads and 



paths, owing to the roughness or the steep ascent, one can 
advance as rapidly on foot as on horseback; and the time 
given is for either method. It is not expected that all of the 
stages of the journey will be made on consecutive days; but 
each stage can be accomplished in one day. The itinerary 
does not give directions for visits in the large towns or cities; 
full particulars will be found in all the guide-books. The hours 
of departure for trains, boats and diligences, and all details by 
the way are omitted; for it is presumed that the traveler will *) 
examine the local time-tables, consult the "portier," and have at 
hand Baedeker's compact and most comprehensive guide-book. 



In lieu of pri vate posting, which is prohibited, the Swiss 
Government conducts a system called " Extra-post." Horses 
and c arriages may be ordered at the principal post-offices, at 
fix ed rates ; and the wise traveler will not ask for a convey- 
ance at his hotel, unless he has failed in his application to 
the post-master. Occasionally, " return carriages" can be 
found, and engaged at a low rate. 

A guide is absolutely necessary for the long and hard 
walk from Le Breuil to Zermatt. In some places a guide 
will be a great convenience, saving the traveler's steps and 
time. In other places the path is so distinct and so smooth 



that it can be followed without difficulty, even by the inex- 
perienced. Baedeker's advice in each case may be followed 
without hesitation. 

When walking, the traveler will find that even a little bag- 
gage will soon become a great incumbrance. The Swiss 
postal system makes it possible to send one's valise from 
town to town with safety and reasonable dispatch ; and the 
traveler will do well to avail himself of this convenience. 
He will be careful, however, to accompany his baggage when- 



ever it crosses the frontier. 

Switzerland should be visited in August. During this 



month the traveler has a reasonable hope of escaping the 
cloudy weather and the rains, which, in other months, detract 
so much from the pleasure and profit of the journey, and 
often prevent it continuance. One who would enjoy the 
Alps must have a clear atmosphere and a bright sky : of 
these he is most sure in August . 




Iti 



r 



nerary. ^%* — -^- 

is t Stage. — Paris or London to Neuchatel : 13 or 20 hours. At Neuchatel 
asce nd Chaumont for view of lakes, the Jura, and the high Alps; good 
introduction to Switzerland. 



2nd — Neuchatel to Geneva: Rail to Lausanne, 2}^hours; steamer on lake to 
Geneva, 3 hours. 

3rd — Geneva to Chamonix : Diligence, S3l4 miles, q hours. Mont Blanc, 
m onarch of European mountains. 

4th — Chamonix to Argentiere: Ascend (walk or ride) the MontanVert, i l A 
hours ; cross the Mer de Glace, descend the Mauvais Pas to the 




Cha peau, iV 2 hours; thence walk (or ride on horses sent around from 



Montanvert) to Lavancher and Argentine, 2% miles. 

gth— Argentiere to Vernayaz : Drive from Argentine to L e Chatelard, 2^ 
hours; here the two routes to the Rhone Valley separate, the on e on 
th» right leading ov er the Tete-Noire to Martigny, the one on the left 
leading by Sal van to Vernayaz : taking the latter, drive to Vernayaz, 
y£ hours. Here visit the imposing Gorge du Trie nt, near, and the 
waterfall of the Pissevache, 1 mile. 

6th— Vernayaz to Gt. St. Bernard Hospice : Rail or carriage to Martigny, 
,y^ miles ; thence drive to Cantine de Proz, 24 miles, the end of the 
road ; thence walk or ride to the Hospice, 2]/ 2 hours, or n# hours 
from Martigny . 

7th— Gt. St. Bernard Hospice to Chatillon : Walk or ride from the Hospice 




to St. Remy, I hour, where the road begins; drive thence to Aosta , 

13 miles ; diligence the nce to Chatillon, 15 miles, 3 hours. 

3th — Chatillon to Le Breuil : Walk or ride, 7 hours; ascend through chest- 
nut groves, pass village of Val Tournanche. 

9th — Le B r euil to Zermatt : Guide absolutely necessary; long and laborious; 
after 2 hours, climb Val Tournanche glacier and ascend to Theodule 
Pass, 4 hours ; after halting at this elevation of io.Sqo, feet, descend 
the Upper Theodule glacier, 1 hour, and continue to Zermatt, 4*4 hours. 

10th — Zermatt to the Gorner Grat and Return : Walk to the Riffel Hotel, 
3 hours, and thence to the Gorner Grat. i}A hours; elevation. 10.289 
feet; very impressive panorama of snow peaks and glaciers; Monte 
Rosa, the Matterh o rn ; return by same route. 




nth — Zermatt to Leukerbad : Drive from Zermatt to St. Niklaus, 12 miles; 
walk or ride thence to Visp, 4 hours; rail thence to Leuk-Susten, 12 
miles; drive thence to Leukerbad, 10 >^ miles, 2>% hours. 



12th — Leukerbad to Interlaken : Walk or ride over the Gemmi Pass, 
ascending the spiral pathway hewn in the face of the almost perpen- 
dicular rock, 2)4, hours ; magnificent view at summit; thence on to 
Kandersteg, at the northern foot of the path, 2> l A hours ; thence 
drive to Spiez on Lake of Thun, 19 miles ; thence steamer to 
Darlingen, 45 minutes, the terminus of the railway ; by rail to 
Interlaken, 10 minutes. From Interlaken an evening excursion may 
be made to the Giessbach ; (rail to Bonigen, 12 minutes, steamer on 
Lake of Brienz about 30 minutes;) during the summer the Falls are 
illuminated with Bengal lights every evening. 



13th — Interlaken to Grindelwald : Drive from Interlaken to Lauterbrunnen, 



8 miles ; see Staubbach, falling 980 feet ; ascend the Wengern Alp, 
3 hours, walk or ride ; here, in August, see fall of ice avalanches 
from side of Jungfrau ; continue to the Little Scheideck, 45 minutes, 
and thence descend to Grindelwald, i x / z hours. The close approach 
to the giant mountains of the Bernese Oberland, and the sight 
and sound of the avalanches will ren der this a memorable day. 
At Grindelwald, see Low er Glacier and the gorge left by its 
retrogression. 

14th — Grindelwald to Hotel Reichenbach : Walk (or ride) about 6 hours, 
passing over the Great Scheideck, visiting the Baths of Rosenlaui 
and the Reichenbach Falls. The village of Meiringen can be surveyed 
from the hotel, and is hardly worth a visit. (If the traveler desires 




a pleasant resting-place and is not too weary, he may continue his 

journey to Im-Hof, 3V2 miles, and spend the nig h t in this attractive 
and quiet village. ) 

nth— Hotel Reichenbach (or Im-Hof) to the Grimsel Hospice : An easy 
day's journey ; walk, about c, hours. While resting at noon, see 
Handeck Fall from every point of view : its height, volume, and 
surroundings render it one of the grandest of Alpine waterfalls. 
From the inn at Handeck to the Hospice, iM hours, the path is 
through a bleak and barren region. 



1 6th 



—Grimsel Hospice to Rhone Glacier : Walk, 2% hours ; ascend in 1 



hour to the summit of Grimsel Pass, and then descend rapidly, 
reaching and passing down a steep, grassy slope with rhododendra, in 



full view of the Rhone Glacier, that "gigantic, frozen waterfall:" 
hotel at its base. 

17th — Rhone Glacier to Andermatt : Diligence or carriage, 21 miles, over 
the Furka Pass ; at summit magnificent views of Bernese Alps and 
the Alps of Valais. At Andermatt, walk to the Devil's Bridge over 
the Reuss, 1% miles, on the St. Gotthard route. 

1 8th — Andermatt to Dis entis, Ilanz or Reichenau : (The journey from 
Andermatt to Thusis may be broken at any of these three places;) 
Oberalp Pass ; diligence, about 20, 40 or 53 miles ; secure seat 
affording view, for the valley of the Vorder Rhein, east of the Pass, 
is one of the most beautiful in Switzerland. 

19th — Disentis, Ilanz or Reichenau to Thusis : 43, 23 or 10 miles. At 




Reichena u the route turns to the south from the valley of the Vorder 



Rhein to the valley of the H inter Rhei n, and follows this to Thusis. 
At Thusis, take a short walk to the famous Via Mala, the feature of 
the Splugen route. 

20th — Thusis to Samaden : Diligence from Thusis to Tiefenkasten; the 
Schyn Pass, 9 miles, 2 hours; diligence from Tiefenkasten to 
Samaden, the Albula Pass, about 30 miles : the whole route has 
interesting mountain scenery, and the Albula Pass is a " wild, rocky 
chaos." From Ponte, at the end of the Albula road, the route 
turns to the south and ascends the valley of the Inn. ( After reaching 
Samaden, the chief village of the Upper Engadine, the traveler, if 
not too weary, may continue his journey to Pontresina, 2% miles, and 
spend the night in this favorite village of the mou ntaineers.) 



Note. — From Samaden (or Pontresina) the traveler, if he has time 
and can expect fair weather, may make a most interesting excursion. 
This will give him an acquaintance with part of the Tyrol, a ride 
through the Lower Engadine, and the crossing of two important 
passes, — the Stelvio, the highest in the Alps practicable for carriages, 
and the Bernina, the next highest. The trip m ay be made in these 
stages : 

(a.) Samaden to Le Prese : over the Bernina, diligence or carriage, 
27 miles, about 6 hours ; the night is spent at this village on the 
shore of a pretty lake near Poschiavo. 

(b.) Le Prese to Baths of Bormio : diligence or carriage, about 
35 miles, 8 hours ; fine view of the Ortler, (12,814 feet). 

(c.) Baths of Bormio to Trafoi: diligence or carriage, 18 miles; 



ove r the Stelvio. The Stelvio ro ad, whi ch, at the summit, is 9,045 




feet high, is remarkable for its great elevation, the engineering 
difficulties in its construction, and the variety and magnificence of 
its scenery. From Bormio the ro ad ascends the vine-clad hills of 
the Valtellina, and climbs to the region of huge glaciers and snow- 
fields at the summit. The Pass is never free from snow, except in 
warm summers. It is almost on the boundary between Italy, Aus- 
tria and Switzerland. From Trafoi, a charming spot, walk in less 
than an hour to the Three Holy Springs, at the foot o f the Order. 

(d.) Trafoi to Mais: 17 miles; diligence or carriage; those who 
walk, can on the way visit Glurns, a queer old fortified town. 

(e.) Mais to Nauders : diligence or carriage, 17 miles ; fine view 
of the ice-clad Ortler. 



(f.) Nauders to Schuls : diligence or carriage, 16 miles ; the route 
ascends the valley of the Inn. Before starting (or on the way, by 
using a footpath,) visit Hoch-Finstermiinz, at the summit of the 
beautiful Finstermunz Pass. 



(g.) Schuls to Samaden : diligence or carriage, 34 miles; the 
road continues to ascend the valley of the Inn ; towers and ruined 
castles, pine-clad hills and snowy peaks of the Lower Engadine. 

2 1st — Samaden to Promontogno: Passing through St. Moritz, crossing 
the Maloja Pass, descending the Val Bregaglia : carriage to St. 
Moritz, about 4 miles ; carriage from St. Moritz to the Maloja 
Pass , passing the lakes of Sils, Silvaplana and Campfer, about 
12 miles ; and thence on foot or by carriage (or diligence) down 
the Val Bregaglia to Promontogno, about 10 miles, where at 




the "Galleria," a pleasant resting-place for the night will be 



found. 
22nd— Promontogno to Bellagio : Carriage to Chiavenna . q miles; carriage 

(or diligence in correspondence with the steamer) to Colico, 16 miles; 

steamer on Lake Como to Bellagio. Visit Villa S erbelloni for view 

of Lake Lecco . 
23rd— Bellagio to Milan: Steamer on Lake Como to Como; rail to Milan, 

^o miles. Fine view of the Alps (and of the Apennines) from 

the roof of the Cathedral . 
2dth— Milan to Lucerne : An easy day's journey from this interesting 

Italian city to the heart of Switzerland, made possible by the 

opening of the wonderful St. Gotthard Tunnel ; rail from Milan to 

Como, across Lake Lugano to Bellinzona, to and through the Tunnel 



to Fluelen ; thence steamer on Lake of Lucerne to Lucerne, (or, if 
the day should be stormy, by rail from Fliielen to Lucerne without 
leaving cars.) 

25th — Lucerne to the Rigi-Kulm: Take steamer in afternoon to Vitznau, 
1 hour, and inclined railway to summit, 4^ miles, 1% hours; the 
famous view includes villages, towns, forests, a dozen lakes, and 
the magnificent peaks of the Bernese Oberland, — the Finsteraar- 
horn, Monch, Jungfrau and others, clad in perpetual snow. 
Spend night here to see, if possible, the setting and the rising sun. 



26th — Rigi-Kulm to Zurich : Inclined railway to Arth, 7 miles ; steamer 




on Lake of Zug to Zug ; rail to Zurich, 41^ miles, 1*4. hours. 


n, 


Excursion on beautiful Lake of Zurich. 
27th — Zurich to Constance : Rail, about 54 miles ; (16 miles to Winterthur, 





an important railway junction ; and thence to Constance, 38 miles, 
about iy z hours .) 
28th — Constance to Schaff hausen : Rail along north shore of Untersee, 30 
miles ; or, if time and weather permit, steamer on Untersee and 
Rhine, 3 hours. Spend the night at Neuhausen, 2 miles, for view 
of Falls of Rhine, which in point of volume, are "the grandest in 
Europe ." 

As all the other more important points of interest can be 
reached by rail, and as the traveler's further movements will be 
determined in some measure by the route which he proposes to 
follow after leaving Switzerland, no other st ages will be indi- 
cated. If in haste, or on his way to Germany, the traveler 



will go to Bale, and thence west or north. If tim e remains, 
he may go to Berne, Freiburg and elsew here. 

A review of his journey to this point will sho w that he 
has visited real Switzerland. He has seen the fo llowing 
passes : (and in this order :) Salvan, Gt. St. Bernard, Theodule , 
Gemmi, Grimsel, Furka, St. Gotthard, Oberalp, Schyn, Albula, 
Bernina, Stelvio, Finsternuinz and Maloja, and has walked on 
the St. Gotthard road at Andermatt, and on the Spluge n at 
T husis This list includes all of the principal passes e xcept 
the Briinig, (Lake Lucerne to Lake Brienz,) the Joch, (Lak e 
Lucerne to the HaslithalJ the Julier, (Upper Engadine to 



& 



Tiefenkasten,) the S. Bernardino, (Bellinzona to the Hinter 
Rhein), and the Simplon, (Lake Maggiore to the Rhone Valley.) 

He has visited the Valley of Chamonix on the west ; th e 
valley of the Lower Engadine on the east ; the Italia n lakes 
on the south, and the Rhine upon the northern boundary. 

He has seen or sailed upon the follo wing lakes : — Neu- 
chatel, Geneva, Thun, Brienz, Como, Lecco, Lugano, Lucerne, 
Zug, Zurich and Constance. 

He has admired the Falls of Pissevache, Giessbach, Staub- 
bach, Reichenbach, Handeck and Rhine. 

He has descended the Mauvais Pas, entered the Gorge du 



Trient, be held avalanches in their fall from the Jungfrau, 
crossed the Devil's Bridge, walked in the Via Mala, passed 
through t he St. Gotthard Tunnel, and stood upon the Rigi. 

He has touched the glaciers of the Grindelwald and the 
Rhone, trave rsed the Mer de Glace, the Val Tournanche and 
the Upper Theodule Glaci ers, and has surveyed the vast fields 
of ice seen from the ' Little Scheideck and the Gemmi, the 
Gorner Grat and the Stelvio. 



He has slept more than 8,000 feet above the sea ; has 
ascended by carriage to an elevation of more than 9,000 feet; 
and has climbed on foot twice to more than 10,000 feet. 



He has stood in silence before Mt. Blanc, the king of the 



Alps, and in admiration before the T ungfrau. the Queen of 
the Bernese Oberland. From the Go r ner Grat he has b eheld 
on the ri ght, the Matterhorn— that solitary, wedge-shaped, 
na ked monolith, towering amid the clouds; on the left, the 
huge, snow-clad domes of the Monte Rosa group ; and below 
and between, a sea of ice, vast and silent. 

When one has gazed day after day upon the 

" Cliffs wrapped in snows of years, 
Splintering wit h icy spears 

Autumn's blue he aven," 

and has journeyed week after week, where 



the vast mountains lie 



Piled in the Switzer's sky, 

Icy and gleaming, " 

: 

he can never regret having spent time, and toil and treasure 
in visiting the home of the Alps. For is there one who 
beholds — 

" Those mighty hills, so shadowy, so sublime, 
As rather to belong to heaven than earth, 
But instantly receives into his soul 
A sense, a feeling that he loses not, 
A something that informs him 'tis an hour 
Whence he may date henceforward and forever." 

GUILIELMUS. 



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HERE are fe w regular European travelers who do not 
know the pleasa nt face, genial nature, intellectual force 
and linguistic a ttainments of C. A. Ba>attoni, Esq. He 
has kindly permitted th e use of his map of Switzerland, and has 
also written the trip through the Black Forest. His large ex- 
p erience as a traveler, and as tourist manager in Europe and 
America, i s ample guarantee that those who travel this rou te 
will find it all he represents, and they will thank him for his 



kindness and courtesy in furnishing an attractive excursion 
which will not be found in the guide-books. 



] \)e ulack Porest. 

HERE is a way to enter the Rhenish district from Switzerland, the 

beauty and interest of which is scarcely known to American tra velers. 

I refer to the trip through the Black Forest, or, as it is called in 

German, Schwarzwald. 

Many travelers think that they see sufficient of the Black Fore st when 

skirting it by railway between Schaffhausen and Offenburg, eastward or 



7 




westward. This is a mistaken idea. Traveling in the Black Forest should 



be performed by carriages ; then alone can these vast pine-forest regions, 
the sombre tints of whose foliage give the district its name, be appreciated, 
not to say anything of the peculiar idioms, characteristic costumes, and 
unsophisticated manners of the inhabitants . 

A desirable and most pleasant manner to visit the Black Forest , after 
leaving Switzerland, is the following : — 

From Schaffhaus en by rail via Waldshut to Albbruck, thence by diligence 
or private carriages (t he latter preferable) to St. Blasien, and via Sternen 
Hollensteig to Freibur g. This trip can be accomplished comfortably in three 
days. 

At the hotel Albt hal, Albbruck, horses and carriages can be obtained for 
the journey through the forest to Freiburg. 



ist Day — Leave Albbruck in the morning by carriages, and proceed through 
the cheerful Alb Valley to Ti efestein, and over the picturesque 
Albthal Pass to St. Blasien. 

2nd Day — Leave St. Blasien in the morning by carriage, passing on the 
route the lakes called Schluchsee and Titisee ; cross the Oberholl- 
ensteig, ending the journey at Sternen Hollensteig in the Hollenthal. 



3rd Day — Resume the journey by carriages, crossing the renowned Hollen- 
pass, the scenery of which is wild and g rand in the extreme ; thence 
by the valley of the Kirchzartenthal to Freiburg. 



The Black Forest Association, having for its m embers all the landed 
or forest proprietors, as well as the hotel and carriage owners, see 
to the proper maintenance of the splendid roads in the forest, which 



can only be compared to carriage-drives in a private villa or a public 



park. 

The ho tels in the Black Forest are small but good ; and comfortable 
accommodation can be obtained. 




